Retiring with Château Lafite

Some wines are so engaging that they bypass our analytical faculties and express their flavors with emotion – their presence demands contemplation, not necessarily of the wine itself, but of our own journey to the current moment. The bottle of 1986 Château Lafite Rothschild that my mother and I shared to celebrate her retirement is one such wine.

In many ways, this wine was a diametrically opposing force to a previous bottle of '81 Château Leoville Las Cases, responsible for restoring a sort of balance to my oenological universe. Did the the Las-Cases provide the shadow that permitted the transient beauty of the Lafite to shine a bit brighter than it may have otherwise? Was I swept away by my emotions, failing to recognize that the Lafite was simply a mediocre bottle of wine?

Whether disappointing or transcendent, aged wines are always an emotional journey that reveal deeper meaning than the flavors in the bottle. The nose on the '86 Lafite gave off intense aromas of spice, molasses, brown sugar, and leather. Supple and elegant flavors of intense black currant and cedar are perfectly nestled inside a fantastic structure of lively acidity and reserved tannins. Tertiary notes of truffle and mushroom carry through the long finish.

“It is because everything must come to an end that everything is so beautiful.”
— Charles-Ferdinand Ramuz

Château Pontet-Canet 2019

My pilgrimage through the landscape of French viticulture continues with another vintage of Château Pontet-Canet. I previously tasted the 2006 vintage, and though I enjoyed it, the 2019 provides an entirely different tasting experience that very closely matches my conceptual ideal of what a Bordeaux should be.

The 2019 Pontet-Canet bursts with black currant, plum, and dark chocolate. Notes of tobacco and cedar gently penetrate the base of dark fruit in the long finish. The wine possesses an uncanny lightness on the palate despite exhibiting intense, rich flavors. Interestingly, this wine's most unique aspect may be how it effortlessly navigates this apparent contradiction.

The tannins are slightly sharp and decoupled, but I’m not surprised, given the youth of this vintage. Given a decade in the cellar, the 2019 Pontet-Canet may be close to perfect.

Château Pontet-Canet (2006)

Bordeaux wine is often considered a symbol of elegance, sophistication, and complexity. Nestled in southwest France, Bordeaux is renowned for producing some of the world's most coveted wines. The complexity of Bordeaux lies in the intricate balance of flavors, aromas, and textures unique to each wine. The region's rich history, diverse geography, and meticulous winemaking techniques all contribute to the wine's complex and multifaceted nature. Bottles of wine from this region have a reputation for eye-watering prices; however, many Bordeaux wines offer excellent value, offering 90% of a coveted first growth at a fraction of the cost. Château Pontet-Canet has long been one of my favorites, offering fantastic wine with quality that remains consistent between vintages. The wines produced by Château Pontet-Canet are renowned for their robust flavors, complexity, and exceptional aging potential.

Château Pontet-Canet is a fifth-growth classified estate that has a history that dates back to the early 18th century. Located in the Pauillac appellation in the Bordeaux region of France, the Tesseron family has owned the estate since 1975. I've been particularly captivated by the story of Alfred Tesseron, the current owner who took charge of the estate in 1994. His passion for organic and biodynamic farming makes him a visionary leader in the conservative region of Bordeaux.

The 2006 vintage of Pontet-Canet is somewhat undervalued, given that the year presented a challenging growing season. The wine still tastes young despite having a bit of age. It remains concentrated, with assertive notes of blackberry, plum, and currant. The present but integrated tannins give way to a long, satisfying finish. It doesn't match the 2010 vintage that Robert Parker scored a perfect 100 points, but it isn't too far behind at half the cost.